Harar, the Fortified Jewel

Harar, the Fortified Jewel

Harar, the Fortified Jewel

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Islam's fourth holiest city, Harar Jugol captivates with its 368 winding alleyways, 110 mosques, and renowned hyena feeding tradition. Complete guide to this UNESCO-listed city.

Harar is a vibrant city. At every street corner, you encounter merchants and buyers haggling, children darting through the crowds, and elders passing the day at leisure. In this ancient settlement, the call to prayer from the muezzin marks the hours, reminding you that you stand within one of Islam's greatest strongholds.

History

Also known as Gēy, Harar owes its foundation to the Harla peoples. According to accounts in the Fath Madinar chronicles, the clerk Abadir Umar ar-Rida and fellow theologians settled in Harar in 1216. They were welcomed by the Harla and Argobba communities. Around the same period, Abadir's brother Fakr ad-Din established the sultanate of Mogadishu. The chronicles of Amada Seymon I indicate that Gēy became an Arab colony and was integrated into the Adal sultanate during the Middle Ages.

Harar became the capital of the Adal sultanate during the reign of Sultan Abu Bakr ibn Muhammad. The city experienced its golden age in the sixteenth century: local culture flourished, inhabitants mastered weaving, bookbinding, and coffee cultivation.

The sultan launched a conquest campaign during the sixteenth century to expand his territory. The protective wall—which would later become the city's defining symbol—was constructed by his successor Emir Nur ibn Mujahid.

Throughout its history, Harar endured repeated turmoil and bloodshed, beginning with the assassination of the legitimate sovereign Abu Beker Mohammad by the Muslim military commander Ahmed Gragn. In 1528, the city served as a launching point for Jihad raids against the Christian Ethiopian empire. Numerous churches were destroyed and Christianity in Ethiopia faced existential threat. Muslim forces continued their assaults on Christians under the leadership of Batti De Wambara, the widow of Ahmed Gragn, who perished during battle against Emperor Gelawdewos in 1453.

The city fell under the control of Emir Ali ibn Daud in 1647, who established autonomous governance. Yet tribal conflicts persisted. Nevertheless, the city began to flourish and emerged as a center of Islamic scholarship.

In 1875, Egypt reasserted control over the city, provoking fierce resistance from the Muslim community. A campaign against Egyptian rule was led by Emir Abdullah until 1885.

Since then, Harar has diminished in commercial prominence. The construction of the railway connecting Addis Ababa and Djibouti through Dire Dawa hastened its decline. Yet the Muslim community succeeded in transforming Harar into Ethiopia's spiritual city. It retained its status as capital of Hararge province until 1994.

Harar Today

Mosques, minarets, markets, centers of Islamic learning—Harar remains a fascinating city of remarkable cultural wealth. Despite its turbulent past, it has preserved its distinctive identity. It possesses its own language and local currency. While it once took days to reach, today an hour's drive from Dire Dawa suffices. Harar has become a modern railway city, equipped with an international airport and several private hotels.

The local population comprises several Afro-Asiatic ethnic groups, including the Oromo, Somali, Gurage, and Tigrayan peoples. Muslims and Christians coexist in perfect harmony. The majority speak Harari, a Semitic Ethiopian language spoken uniquely by Harar's inhabitants. While men dress in modern fashion, women continue to wear traditional silk garments, adorned with vibrant, gold-embellished shawls.

Harar is enclosed by a wall stretching 3,342 meters, constructed from limestone blocks bound with mud. To the north, east, southeast, south, and west, five gates representing Islam's five pillars provide access to the city. Along the narrow winding streets, charming shops offer distinctive gift items and finely woven baskets.

Two museums merit a visit in Harar if you wish to deepen your understanding of the city's history and culture. You will find exhibitions of coins, traditional garments, jewelry, baskets, and manuscripts. One museum houses the pistol of Harar's patriot Dejazmach Teferra.

One of the city's most significant traditions is the hyena feeding ceremony. During this annual event, men gather with the animals and share meat with them. The spectacle is deeply moving, demonstrating the profound importance of this creature, regarded as the city's emblem.

Harar is predominantly a Muslim city, home to more than 110 mosques and numerous mausoleums. Yet two Christian churches, including the Medhanie Alem church built by Emperor Menelik, stand within its walls. These churches display distinctly Ethiopian architectural decoration, featuring ostrich eggs on their roofs as symbols of reverence.

Throughout the old city, you will discover numerous shrines and immaculate white mosques. The stalls of local artisans, laden with carpets in vibrant hues, offer a feast for the eyes. Other sites of interest await you in Harar, including the house of Ras Mekonne, Arthur Rimbaud's residence, the sixteenth-century Jami mosque, and Mount Kondulo.

For the beauty of its architecture and culture, the city received UNESCO World Heritage status in 1989.

Climate

Harar enjoys a subtropical highland climate. Average temperatures range from 14°C to 25°C. Annual average precipitation measures 126 mm.

  • By Bus

A bus service operates a shuttle between Harar and Dire Dawa.

  • By Air

Harar is served by Dire Dawa International Airport

You can take the blue and white minibuses or rent a vehicle for your explorations around Harar. It is also possible to explore the city on foot. Engage a knowledgeable guide to avoid losing your way. Some alleyways remain perpetually crowded.

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